Restaurant Review: Cafe Kitty at Underbelly Boulevard Soho

In a now-legendary episode dating back to March 12, 1759, Kitty Fisher found herself in a rather undignified predicament. While horseback riding in St James's Park she suffered a mishap, inadvertently revealing more than was considered proper at the time, given the absence of split-leg undergarments (ooh, matron!). This incident became the talk of the town, with numerous broadsheets, ballads, and prints capitalising on the pun of her becoming a ‘fallen woman.’

This remarkable figure finds her tribute not in mere remembrance, but in the very fabric of a renowned establishment nestled in the heart of Soho.

Yet, true to her spirited nature, Fisher refused to let this incident define her. Swiftly taking matters into her own hands, she orchestrated a masterstroke to redirect public attention. Fisher enlisted none other than Joshua Reynolds, the preeminent painter in all of England, to immortalise her in a portrait. This savvy move ensured that she not only reclaimed control of her narrative but also elevated her status in the public eye.

 Unsurprisingly, Kitty’s enduring legacy continues to exert its influence in contemporary times, held in perpetual reverence by today's high society, including luminaries of modern-day glitterati, charismatic performers, and the denizens of the cabaret scene. This remarkable figure finds her tribute not in mere remembrance, but in the very fabric of a renowned establishment nestled in the heart of Soho. Here, Kitty’s indelible mark on history is celebrated with the kind of reverence befitting such an illustrious heroine, with her very own Cafe Kitty, the new establishment at Underbelly Boulevard, or colloquially known to us Londnrs as ‘sex alley’. Tee-hee.

This establishment is nothing short of extraordinary. If you've had the pleasure of dining at any of the ventures under the stewardship of Messrs. Milburn, Mullion & Steel, such as the acclaimed Kitty Fisher's in Mayfair or Cora Pearl in Covent Garden, you'll be well acquainted with their hallmark offerings of exceptional cuisine, unpretentious ambiance, and a tantalising array of cocktails.

Each venue pulsates with an electric energy, fostering a sense of camaraderie akin to the vibrant heyday of the early Moulin Rouge.

There exists an unmistakable synergy between the art of menu curation and the theatrics of the dining experience. Each venue pulsates with an electric energy, fostering a sense of camaraderie akin to the vibrant heyday of the early Moulin Rouge. Sultry late-night spots where luminaries like Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec might have mingled, or which might have witnessed artistic exchange between Gertrude Stein and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Here, within the welcoming embrace of Cafe Kitty's walls, one finds themselves ensconced in the very heart of the theatre district, treated to a lofty panoramic view of a bustling world of lights and allure below.

One would be remiss not to indulge in the iconic 'Bad Kitty' cocktail, a homage to the audacious courtesan herself, crafted with East London Dry Gin, Sloe Gin, Elderflower, Lemon & Prosecco.

A dining experience at any of Kitty Fisher's establishments seamlessly weaves together the realms of culinary artistry and cabaret. At Cafe Kitty, this tradition is elevated to new heights. The King Oyster Mushroom Thermidor, an extraordinary symphony of flavours, stands out as a sensory delight—an exquisite gastronomic journey that lingers on the palate. Equally remarkable is the Pork Chop, Celeriac Choucroute & Pickled Walnut, a heavenly main course that delicately melts in the mouth. The supporting acts, notably the show-stopping Crispy Potatoes and perfectly balanced Creamed Spinach, demonstrate the kitchen's skilful choreography of flavours.

Every bite is a testament to culinary finesse. To conclude the performance, a dessert selection featuring the Poached Pear & Gingerbread Cheesecake Mousse, along with classic ice creams and sorbets, offers a refined yet unpretentious denouement. One would be remiss not to indulge in the iconic 'Bad Kitty' cocktail, a homage to the audacious courtesan herself, crafted with East London Dry Gin, Sloe Gin, Elderflower, Lemon & Prosecco.

Situated at the heart of Walker's Court, Cafe Kitty is a welcomed addition. She seamlessly serves as a prelude, a leading act, and a post-cabaret delight for patrons attending live shows at Underbelly Boulevard. Kitty, j’adore.

For more information and bookings, please visit the Cafe Kitty at Underbelly Boulevard’s website